Eagle Crag and Sergeant’s Crag

PXL_20231023_104111419
Stonethwaite Beck and Eagle Crag.

An October outing up two Wainwrights which I’ve never climbed before. Not sure how I’ve managed to avoid them. Anyway, my mistake: they were well worth a visit. In the photo above, you can see that there’s a lot of steep stuff on Eagle Crag and it’s not immediately obvious how you’ll get up there, but fortunately it’s all plain sailing; the path winds round to the left of the first knoll, Bleak How, and then finds a passage through the remaining complexities.

PXL_20231023_104942016
Fungi.

Having said that, after the initial easy plod along Stonethwaite Beck and then a boggy bit of field, I turned away from the valley path either too late or too early and then found myself fighting spiky, crumpled bracken uphill, but eventually managed to reach a sketchy path by the wall which then lead me around the craggy parts of Bleak How and on to the ridge.

PXL_20231023_110544264
Long Band on Coldbarrow Fell.

This stream, unnamed on the OS map, has carved quite an impressive looking amphitheatre below Long Band on the opposite fellside and I filed away the idea of having a gander there on a future walk.

PXL_20231023_112930423
My ascent route, approaching Eagle Crag..
PXL_20231023_113018966
Knotts and Great Crag above Stonethwaite.

It was a fairly grey day, with occasionally the odd drop of moisture in the air and the apparent threat of rain, but none-the-less good walking weather.

PXL_20231023_114626955
A broad ramp.

The route follows a resourceful path which finds first a broad ramp with crags above and below, and then switches back up an easy-angled gully through what might have seemed impenetrable cliffs.

PXL_20231023_114846038
Looking down on Bleak How.
PXL_20231023_115355452
Heron Crag and Langstrath.
PXL_20231023_115406764
A steepish section.
PXL_20231023_121023465
Looking to Sergeant’s Crag

On the last part of the ascent, the path loops drunkenly back and forth following broad ledges separated by short slabby crags. You could probably take a more direct route, but it’s pleasant walking so why bother?

PXL_20231023_122113955
Sergeant’s Crag and Langstrath.
PXL_20231023_122540677
Sergeant’s Crag again.

Too many photos of Sergeant’s Crag? I liked the look of it!

PXL_20231023_122810616
The long Glaramara ridge.
PXL_20231023_123059337
Looking north to Skiddaw.

On the top, the inevitable cup of tea, a video-call with my Mum and Dad, and a brief conversation with another walker. I saw surprisingly few that day.

PXL_20231023_123156111
Sergeant’s Crag. Again!
PXL_20231023_135520802
Looking back to Eagle Crag.
PXL_20231023_140658158
Eagle Crag again.
PXL_20231023_141036190
Glaramara.

Not much more climbing to attain Sergeant’s Crag and then I took an off-piste route down towards Langstrath, aiming to avoid Bull Crag and Blea Crag and the crags around Lamper Knott. With hindsight, I’m not sure it’s a route I could recommend: there’s a lot of crags and even the grassy parts are liberally sprinkled with boulders and rocks. Still, I enjoyed it immensely.

PXL_20231023_142238243
An off piste descent.
PXL_20231023_145433075
Approaching Langstrath Beck.

I wanted to come down this way so that I could have a peek at the renowned Black Moss Pot…

PXL_20231023_152220654
Blackmoss Pot.

There were quite a few wet-suited swimmers nearby, the ones who had just finished swimming advising and encouraging another group who had just arrived. I’ve never swum here myself and it’s on my wish-list, although not for a grey day towards the end of October!

PXL_20231023_160555178
Langstrath Beck.
PXL_20231023_162548056
Stonethwaite.
Map the first.
Around six and a half miles – but there’s a lot packed into that short walk.
Eagle Crag and Sergeant’s Crag

A Sunny Glen Coe Stroll.

PXL_20231001_101415468
Glencoe Folk Museum – housed in thatched eighteenth century crofters cottages.

The Sunday of our Glencoe break was absolutely glorious. Uncle Fester and The Prof elected to stay in the house to watch the golf. I know; they often seem like quite rational types, but clearly some kind of mental instability is suspected.

PXL_20231001_110258816
Impressive looking ridges either side of Fionn Ghleann (I think).

The rest of the party decided to head for the Pap of Glencoe. Since breathing, and moving, more both proving a bit painful for me, I thought I would just settle for a bit of a wander. Initially I followed on up the path heading for the Pap, but with no intention of going all the way up. The views were tremendous.

PXL_20231001_112109095
Looking down to Loch Leven.
PXL_20231001_112442076
Those hills again.

After a couple of small, innocuous looking rocky steps, which, since I couldn’t really bend down, I thought I might struggle to descend (I was right), I chose to slowly amble back down.

PXL_20231001_113148111
And again. It’s a very long time since I did Bidean nam Bian (on the left here). Too long.

And then to do a slow circuit of the small lochan above Glencoe.

PXL_20231001_122454137
We have ‘chatty benches’ in Silverdale, but this road-sign takes friendliness to another level.
PXL_20231001_123527698
Glencoe Lochan.

It was genuinely warm and I made good use of the many benches stationed around along the path.

PXL_20231001_124355723
Glencoe Lochan.

The were quite a few dragonflies about and I quixotically tried to photograph them using my phone, with no success whatsoever.

PXL_20231001_124633060
Glencoe Lochan and the Pap of Glencoe.
PXL_20231001_135552536
Glencoe Lochan and the Pap of Glencoe from a slightly different angle.
PXL_20231001_141724899
Beinn a’ Bheithir and Loch Leven.

I finished with a little wander by the loch.

PXL_20231001_141815561
River Coe, Pap of Glencoe, Sgorr nam Fiannaidh and Bidean nam Bian.

And was back in time to see the end of the Ryder Cup. Oh no! Could it be that I have a smidge of ‘mental instability’ too?

A Sunny Glen Coe Stroll.

Beinn Sgulaird

PXL_20230929_174104247
Sunset from the M74, just across the border.

Late September. The Tower Captain and I drove* up to Glencoe to join a small party of old muckers who’d already been there most of the week.
(*Well, he drove, I took photos out of the window obviously).

On the Saturday, we dragged ourselves away from the drama of the Ryder Cup* and headed around the coast to Glen Creran, parking one car up the valley in the car park near Elleric, before returning to park the other near Druimavuic from where we began our traverse of the longish ridge of Beinn Sgulaird.
(*Not as tricky for me as it was for some of the others. I hate golf. Although I do enjoy watching Europe beat the USA)

PXL_20230930_090943638
Looking down to Loch Creran.

Now Beinn Sgulaird was a new Munro to me. Not something that happens very often. I think the last new one I ticked off was Stuchd an Lochain back in 2011. I didn’t think much about that novelty last September, but this evening I dug out my old Munros map/tick-list and have enjoyed looking it over and wondering about some of the other Munros I’ve yet to climb. I’ll never finish them all, which I’m totally happy with, in fact there are many I’ve climbed before that I’m really hankering after revisiting, but it is nice to grab a new one now and again.
If I remember right, the reason we’d lit upon Beinn Sgulaird in the first place was that it was one of UF’s remaining four unticked Munros. He’s obviously much more single-minded than me. And braver. I’ve done some summits in the Skye Cuillin, but on the whole I’m content to leave those hills to people with a better head for heights than me. And better balance, come to that.

PXL_20230930_092358044
Meall Garbh from unnamed top at 488m.

We did Stuchd an Lochain mostly in mist. This was another cloudy day, but we had much better views than we did that day.

PXL_20230930_094556845
Looking back to the 488m top.

There was a small, but easy to follow path, and although I never move very quickly, we made steady progress.

PXL_20230930_110034402
Andy on Meall Garbh (I think).

The cloud on the ridge was swirling about and offering partial views, which was very atmospheric.

PXL_20230930_110157296
Misty conditions.
PXL_20230930_110421854
A partial clearing.
PXL_20230930_121539182
Andy again.
PXL_20230930_121552858
The descent from Meall Garbh.
PXL_20230930_122756765
Beinn Trilleachan (I think).
PXL_20230930_122821431.PANO
Pano.
PXL_20230930_123217822
The ridge on to Beinn Sgulaird.
PXL_20230930_124047676
Looking back to Meall Garbh. (I think).

I don’t seem to have taken a summit photo. I’m not sure why not, but we were in the cloud for a while, either side of the summit.

PXL_20230930_134828083
Descending into Coire nan Tulach.

The Prof was adamant that from the top we should turn-tail and retrace our ascent route, since there had been a good path. He was in a minority of one however. Old, wiser heads prevailed. Well….older anyway.

PXL_20230930_141334669
Stob Gaibhre in the foreground. I presume that’s Beinn Fhionnlaidh beyond. Looks good.

Any trace of a path, faint or otherwise, soon disappeared. Never-the-less, to begin with the descent into Coire nan Tulach was great. It was rough going, yes, but rocky and interesting, with expansive views and a real, remote wild feel to it.

PXL_20230930_141813365
Pretty much the same view again. I like them both!

But the lower we descended, the more tussocky and awkward the going became. We skirted around Stob Gaibhre and then dropped off the ridge down towards Glen Ure.

PXL_20230930_144741067
Beinn Trilleachan. Rocky.

I fell over, which was annoying. Then I fell again, but this time it was more than annoying. It ought to have been an innocuous affair – I pitched forward onto a large tussock – but the impact was on my sternum which was extremely painful and which took me almost a month to recover from. Maybe I cracked a rib. Certainly breathing was uncomfortable for the rest of that day and the one which followed. I’ve always been prone to tumbling now and again, but it seems that these days I don’t bounce like I used to.
Maybe the Prof was right about our choice of descent route.
Just don’t tell him I admitted that.

PXL_20230930_155423240
Glen Ure.

Fortunately, once we hit the track in Glen Ure the rest of the walk became an easy and very pleasant affair, although I think it did spit with rain a little.

PXL_20230930_163236908
Looking back. An Grianan in the centre. Looks worth investigating. Beinn Fhionnlaidh on the left.
PXL_20230930_170316868
The whole ridge: Stob Gaibhre, Beinn Sgulaird, Meall Garbh and point 488m on the right.

Back in the car park, UF, for reasons only he knows, decided to settle an argument with a tree by backing his car into it. I think he lost, although said collision didn’t seem to slow him or his speedy vehicle down any on the drive back around to Glen Coe.

A mostly brilliant day. Some views, a new tick, an interesting gnarly ridge, great company and rounded all off with another fabulous meal at The Laroch in Ballachulish (which is highly recommended).

Map.

MapMyWalk gives a little over 10 miles, and almost exactly 1000m of climbing (which is definitely an underestimate).

Beinn Sgulaird

Return to Harrop Tarn

PXL_20230903_105717709
Nab Crags above Wythburn.

What with Harrop Tarn being my new favourite swimming spot, after my visit last June, I was keen to share it with my nearest and dearest, so when A asked about a potential swim when her boyfriend L was visiting, that was the first suggestion which sprang to mind.
The small parking area at Stockhow Bridge was already jam-packed when we arrived, but we were lucky to find some roadside parking close to the junction of the currently closed road around the western side of Thirlmere and the main road.

PXL_20230903_111046376
Thirlmere Reservoir.
PXL_20230903_112950507
Helvellyn.

It was a beautiful day, quite warm, so the views back across the reservoir to Helvellyn and its satellites gave me frequent welcome excuses to stop for a breather and take photos during the steepish ascent.

PXL_20230903_115342429
The rocky bowl which holds Harrop Tarn.
PXL_20230903_115408827
A and L racing each other on the stepping stones.

There’s a bridge across Dob Gill near the outflow from Harrop Tran, but A insisted on a race across the stepping stones. And then again with a headstart. And again with a more generous headstart, but L is a triathlete and clearly very agile, and no amount of leeway was going to get our A across first.

PXL_20230903_120157882
Harrop Tarn.
PXL_20230903_120205300
Harrop Tarn.
PXL_20230903_125824660
Harrop Tarn. Tarn Crags beyond.

L was ready and into the water before I’d even undone my laces. Then out again even faster. Apparently the water was cold. He wasn’t wrong. I guess triathletes are used to the luxury of a wetsuit.
A is undeniably much hardier than I am: she and her friend S (the Tower Captain’s daughter for long-suffering readers) have instigated a new ‘tradition’ of going for an open water swim on S’s birthday. In March! This year that was in a stream up by Alston in the Pennines (it looked lovely, but A was a bit vague about the exact location). Last year it was in High Dam, with snow still sitting on the banks. Brrr. Never-the-less, on this occasion she took her time getting in and didn’t last much longer in the water than L had.

PXL_20230903_130142931.PANO
Harrop Tarn pano.

TBH took an absolute age acclimatising herself inch by squealing inch. By the time she was fully immersed I’d almost finished my first circuit of the tarn (like a lot of mammals adapted to cold water I have my own built in insulation). I could see that TBH intended to follow my lead, so I cut a corner and we swam a circuit together. Or almost together – like most people, TBH swims faster than I do.

P1400825
Black Darter.

Not the most attractive dragonfly perhaps, but exciting for me because I’m not aware of having seen one of these before and I certainly haven’t photographed one.

PXL_20230903_131120927
Another stepping stone race. Only ever going to be one winner.
PXL_20230903_131518210
Fly agaric?
PXL_20230903_133435379
Elephant Hawkmoth Caterpillar.

The first time I saw, and photographed, one of these, was also on a walk with A. And her friend S and the Tower Captain come to that, way back in 2009. One of the photos I took then somehow ended up high on the list of results of an internet image search and for a few years that post would get heavy traffic every July and August when people were trying to work out what it was they’d seen clambering on their Fuschias.

Return to Harrop Tarn

Raby Castle

PXL_20230818_101459034
My in-laws with their grandsons.

We had one more opportunity to meet up with my brother-in-law and his family and drove to Raby Castle, which is near Crook in County Durham, where they were staying with TBH’s parents, who also joined us for the day.

PXL_20230818_101520038
My in-laws with their grandsons, again.

Since we first met, TBH has been telling me how fabulous Raby Castle is, but somehow we’ve never got around to visiting it together.

PXL_20230818_101741099
Raby castle, courtyard.

It seems to have avoided being ‘slighted’ during the Civil War, the fate of many English Castles, so it’s still in a good state of repair and is much a stately home as a castle.

PXL_20230818_101928342
I think this was the butler’s room.

Each of the rooms was curated by a member of staff, all of whom were keen to answer questions and to tell stories about the house, it’s former occupants and ghostly residents. It was certainly an enjoyable venue for a family day out on a grey and damp day.

PXL_20230818_103050791
A room with…
PXL_20230818_103041703
…a fancy ceiling.
PXL_20230818_103242289
Dining room.
PXL_20230818_103645042
Guns galore.
PXL_20230818_103802465
The recently restored state coach.
PXL_20230818_110705540
A huge room.
PXL_20230818_110810436
A griffon?
PXL_20230818_111034579
The family chapel.
PXL_20230818_111019801
A lion on the end of a pew.
PXL_20230818_111027961
And the whippet (?) opposite.
PXL_20230818_111556799
Lots of shiny pots, kettles and jelly molds in the kitchen.
PXL_20230818_112520474
Raby Castle exterior.
Raby Castle

Here, There and Everywhere

PXL_20230815_091336960
Dr A, W, M, B and S on the Balancing Tree in the Ring of Beeches.

Our Peak District trip was timed to fit in with a visit from my brother-in-law, Dr A and his family. We didn’t have them for long and were keen to pack a lot in. First of all, a walk in Eaves Wood.

P6141084
Dr A and B on the same branch in 2008.
PXL_20230815_093630707
Silverdale from Castlebarrow.
PXL_20230815_101442648
TBH and Dr S at The Cove.
PXL_20230815_101600407
W has been clambering on the rocks, and swimming in the mud.

Since our American relatives needed to be back in County Durham, we decided to head that way and to rendezvous by Brougham Castle. Now, note: Brougham Castle, not Brough Castle which is nearby. Since I’d been very careful to point out the similarity of names and locations, we knew as we waited near Brougham Castle that they couldn’t possibly have made the mistake of going to Brough instead. After all, maps are pretty much Dr A’s area of professional expertise.

PXL_20230815_133306801
Brougham Castle and the River Eamont.

With a little time to kill whilst Dr A drove his family the short distance back from Brough to Brougham, we decided to detour slightly to have a peek around Brougham Hall, which is free and always worth a gander.

PXL_20230815_134530478
Brougham Hall.
PXL_20230815_135231688
Brougham Hall.
PXL_20230815_135545351
Brougham Hall, the Chancellor’s Den.

There’s more about the Hall and the Castle, and cute photos of the kids when they were little, from a previous visit here.

Once we were reunited, we drove to Little Salkeld, intending to have a walk to Lacy’s Caves. The path has been officially closed when we’ve done that walk in the past (one of those walks here). It still is. But now there’s a big sign displayed to that effect, rather than a scrappy bit of paper tacked to a telegraph pole. We decided to head up the road a little way to Long Meg stone circle instead.

PXL_20230815_145139969
Looking to the Lake District from the new car park by Long Meg and her Sisters.
PXL_20230815_145240017
A short walk to the stones.

There may be a new, and quite substantial, car park, but we still had the circle almost to ourselves.

PXL_20230815_145747658
Some of the Sisters.

It’s an amazing place and it astonishes me that it’s not more well known. (There’s more details about the stones in this post from our first visit in 2011.)

PXL_20230815_145757194
More of the stones...
PXL_20230815_145923400
…which clearly need to be climbed on.
PXL_20230815_150016951
Long Meg.
PXL_20230815_150032363
Cup and ring mark. I think.
PXL_20230815_150119831
Long Meg, with her sisters behind.
PXL_20230815_150512216
More stones.
PXL_20230815_150848308
And more.
PXL_20230815_151403321
Dark skies over the Pennines.
PXL_20230815_151408807
Another view of the stones.
PXL_20230815_151427441
TBH chilling out.
PXL_20230815_152638018
Family pose.
PXL_20230815_184756523
Heald Brow.

Later, when we were home again, and since it was a nice evening, I was out for a local stroll.

PXL_20230815_191604654
Sunset from Jack Scout.

Another busy day!

Here, There and Everywhere

A Walk in the Dove Valley.

PXL_20230812_171205653
A view from near Calwich Home Farm.

We had one more day in our little cottage in Staffordshire, but Little S was under the weather and B needed a lift to Uttoxeter to catch a train to Manchester where he was meeting friends. Unfortunately, the main road was closed due to an accident, which meant that trip took a lot longer than it ought to have done.

PXL_20230812_171647314
Calwich Park.

So TBH and I finished off our short trip with a wander in the vicinity of the cottage. The countryside was green and rolling and very pleasant.

PXL_20230812_171834835
Ground Beetle – possibly Poecilus cupreus.
PXL_20230812_172359563
Calwich Abbey.

I’d noticed Calwich Abbey on the map and was keen to take a peek. According to the Historic England website the house is Victorian, but in a Tudor style, and is built on the site of a medieval abbey. It was derelict when the listing was made, in 1984, but was sold in 2015, so hopefully it will be restored?

PXL_20230812_172502559
Calwich Abbey, otherwise known as The House of Usher.
PXL_20230812_172759599
Another Ground Beetle. Maybe a Pterostichus species?
P1390456
Buzzard, I think.
PXL_20230812_174416399
River Dove.
PXL_20230812_174931952
TBH by the River Dove near Norbury.
PXL_20230812_175203318
Small scale hydro scheme?

The path through the woods near Norbury were overgrown from the off – nettles, brambles etc; all the obstacles to pleasant country walking in the summer. As we progressed it became more and more impenetrable. We should really have turned back. By the end, a machete was needed, and my habitual choice of shorts had turned out to be a very poor decision.
Then it was spitting with rain as we walked along a minor lane for a while.

PXL_20230812_184038293
TBH heading towards the Dove.

At least the last section, over the Dove via the charmingly named Toadhole Footbridge was much more pleasant.

PXL_20230812_184148506
TBH on Toadhole Footbridge.

As we crossed the bridge, we were lucky enough to catch sight of a Kingfisher, my first for some time.

PXL_20230812_184208737
River Dove.
PXL_20230812_184310120
TBH on Toadhole Footbridge.
PXL_20230812_184456225
Almost back to our accommodation.

Looking at the map, after our walk, it struck me that there is probably quite a bit of scope for decent walks in this area, just outside the National Park. The wooded valley of Ordley Brook looks particularly worth exploring. Another time perhaps. I certainly hope it’s not too long before we come back to the Peak District for another visit – perhaps a slightly longer one next time.

A Walk in the Dove Valley.

Monsal Trail and Dove Dale

PXL_20230811_115320630
Headstone Tunnel

I’ve always considered the view from Monsal Head of the Headstone Viaduct to be one of the iconic scenes in the Peak District. Since the days when I was a regular visitor to the area, the old railway line has been converted into a walking and cycling track, a fact which Andy alerted me to on his blog.
We’d brought the DBs bikes with us, and hired bikes at Hassop Station for TBH and myself. I remember that my bike was a Raleigh, but not which model, which is a shame, because it was very comfortable and a pleasure to ride.

PXL_20230811_115244258
Headstone Tunnel

Hassop is near, but not at, one end of the line. We set-off west to tackle the larger portion of the trail first. There are six tunnels on the route and I seem to have taken photos either of, or in, most of them. I’m not sure why I was so chuffed to be cycling through tunnels, perhaps because I’m still essentially a big kid at heart.

PXL_20230811_115609374
View from the Headstone Viaduct.
PXL_20230811_115644980
View the other way from the Headstone Viaduct.
PXL_20230811_121407428
Cressbrook Mill.
PXL_20230811_121737166
Gorge-ous scenery.
PXL_20230811_121844972
One of the dales.

The trail generally follows the valley of the River Wye, but, confusingly, the name of the dale changes along its length: Monsal Dale, Water-cum-Jolly Dale, Millers Dale, Chee Dale, Wye Dale. It’s hard to know where the transitions occur and also hard to remember where each of the photos was taken, so I can’t say which dale each one shows!

PXL_20230811_122011940
Happy bikers.
PXL_20230811_123033372
Looking down on the road.
PXL_20230811_123820204
Two viaducts near Miller’s Dale Station.
PXL_20230811_124018998
Miller’s Dale Station.

The cafe at Millers Dale station was popular and we probably should have got some lunch there. Little S did get an ice-cream, which for some reason seems to have caused some consternation on his part…

PXL_20230811_124753408
Little S with a suspicious ice-cream.
PXL_20230811_130222626
Huge limekiln.
PXL_20230811_131800573
Possibly the last of the tunnels.
PXL_20230811_132728014
End of the line.

We’d been planning to eat at the cafe at Blackwell Mill, at the western end of the trail, but didn’t, I think it was closed. Either that, or it didn’t have any vegan options, I can’t remember.

PXL_20230811_133019480
Chee Dale.

I’d chosen to start near the Bakewell end because I’d read online that it would be uphill from there. It must be a very gentle gradient: it hadn’t seemed uphill, but now that we turned around, the difference was really obvious and going the other way was much faster and could be free-wheeled.

PXL_20230811_133348739
Chee Dale from the little spur.

I had noticed a short spur here coming post and took a detour now to have a nose. It was well worth it for the view.

PXL_20230811_135519811
Free-wheeling.
PXL_20230811_135535520
One of the Dales!

Back at Hassop station we had a very late lunch in the excellent cafe there, which is highly recommended.

We were running short of time on our bike rentals, so I asked in the shop whether we were okay to cycle to the other end of the line near Bakewell. I was told that it was fine, so long as we were back before closing, but that the return part was uphill and that many people found it challenging.

PXL_20230811_152515682
The other end of the line.
PXL_20230811_153246913
Bakewell Station.
PXL_20230811_154140351
Hassop Station.

Actually, it was fine and I’m pleased that we managed to fit in the entire route. I was hoping for a view over Bakewell, but whilst we did get some, they were partial and didn’t yield very good photos.
The whole trail is 8½ miles, so there and back is only 17, not a very long cycle ride I know, but immensely enjoyable and pretty much flat which is a big selling point as far as I’m concerned.

PXL_20230811_165405093
Dove Dale.

From my childhood visits to the Peak District I think three memories stand out: the show caves around Castleton; steaming, overheated cars pulled over on the roadside up Winnats Pass; and the stepping stones and rock scenery of Dove Dale. Since Dove Dale wasn’t far from where we staying, I was determined to fit in a visit whilst we were there and although it was late in the day, we managed to get into the National Trust car park before the entrance was closed for the evening.

PXL_20230811_165646488
River Dove.

Even though it was early evening, the area around the stepping stones was still very busy, with lots of large family groups enjoying picnics.
We didn’t have to go far though before it became much quieter.

PXL_20230811_171831213
The Twelve Apostles, well some of them.

I remember, on those early visits, being awed by the natural rock arch above the path, and that it was close to Reynard’s Cave, but I don’t think we ever climbed up to the arch or the cave.

PXL_20230811_174313010
Natural Arch.

Judging by the heavily eroded path, that’s now a very popular activity. It’s pretty steep, more so than this photo suggests.

PXL_20230811_174707968
And from above.
PXL_20230811_174948738
And from Reynard’s Cave.
PXL_20230811_174919537
TBH in Reynard’s Cave.

Like Thor’s Cave, there’s archeological evidence showing that Reynard’s Cave was occupied, at least sporadically, during the Neolithic through to the Medieval period.

PXL_20230811_175322517
Another cave.

We found another, smaller cave just around the corner from Reynard’s and then an alternative route back to the river which was a little less steep.

PXL_20230811_175625492
Descending from Reynard’s Cave.

Before heading for home we walked a little further upstream so that the DBs could investigate this rather wet cave which had a stream flowing out of it…

PXL_20230811_181239560
Another cave down by the river.
PXL_20230811_184413205
The famous stepping stones.

And finally, on the path back to the car park, a couple of interesting insect encounters…

PXL_20230811_184823053
Lesser Stag Beetle (I think).
PXL_20230811_185115193
A White Ermine Moth Caterpillar (I think).

This was the last full day of our flying visit to the Midlands. Our trip was short, but packed with interest and I hope it’s not too long before we’re back in the area.

Monsal Trail and Dove Dale

White Peak – a Trip to Buxton.

A Very Full Day.

PXL_20230810_115657570
TBH and the DBs in Poole’s Cavern.

When I was a nipper, trips to the limestone caverns around Castleton where a regular treat, at least that’s how I remember it and we certainly visited all of the show caves in that area. But I don’t think we ever visited Poole’s Cavern near Buxton. So, we’d booked online the night before to put that right. Driving up, Google maps took us on a high level route, coming into Buxton from Axe Edge Moor, which I very much enjoyed because of the fantastic views.

P1390443
One of the resident Buzzards near our accommodation.

Actually, I’m getting ahead of myself. There were a pair of Buzzards evidently resident in the trees near to our rental property and I took every opportunity to try to get photos of them. Here’s one I took whilst I was waiting for everybody to be ready to set off for Buxton.

PXL_20230810_113940422
Flowstone features Poole cavern.

I thoroughly enjoyed Poole’s Cavern. There was an interesting little museum in the visitor’s centre too. Apparently there’s evidence that the cave was occupied from the Bronze Age onwards. One of the occupants was an outlaw called Poole, hence the name.

PXL_20230810_114956261
Flowstone features Poole cavern.

The large and broken stalactite in the centre is called The Flitch of Bacon. I was more impressed with the pools in the flowstone beneath.

PXL_20230810_115538031
An abundance of stalagmites and stalactites.

Quarrying in the hillside above the cavern has caused the stalactites and stalagmites to grow at an increased rate. Research is ongoing into this accelerated growth.

PXL_20230810_115617802
Stalagmites and stalactites
PXL_20230810_115646012
Poached Egg Stalagmites.
PXL_20230810_115718966
More flowstone features.
PXL_20230810_115852164
And more (or a backdrop from a scene in Alien?)
PXL_20230810_115913074
And more.
PXL_20230810_121059852
Flowstone coated boulder at the furthest point of the tour.

Seasoned cavers have apparently been working for years to dig a way through the stonefall at the end of the passage to find a way through to potential caverns beyond. It sounds like a dangerous and thankless task.

Poole’s Cavern is part of Buxton Country Park. There’s a Go Ape there too, and so I booked the DBs in for an afternoon session, we lunched at the cafe in the visitor centre, and then while the boys were doing their Tarzan thing, TBH and I went for a wander through Grin Low Woods and up to the top of the hill, where there’s a folly and a fine view over Buxton.

PXL_20230810_133426439
Grin Low.
PXL_20230810_133903560
Grinlow Tower (Solomon’s Temple).

Grinlow Tower was apparently commissioned by the splendidly named Solomon Mycock to provide work for the unemployed in the town.

PXL_20230810_134103034
Buxton from the top of the tower.
PXL_20230810_133942626
Looking towards Axe Edge Moor.

Back in 1983, my dad, his friend John and myself completed a challenge event called the Bullocky Smithy Hike. It’s an annual thing, still running if you fancy a go, organised by Hazel Grove Scouts. It’s advertised as 56 miles, but whilst there are checkpoints there’s no fixed route. We did a bit of road walking to avoid stumbling down Miller’s Dale in the dark, so I’ve always claimed that we walked 60. To be honest, it’s mainly the checkpoints (and the pain in my left knee for the last few miles) which I remember. At the checkpoints volunteers offered friendly encouragement, lavish quantities of food, hot sweet tea and (I think) treatment for blisters and muscle aches. I think we crossed Axe Edge Moor at about three in the morning. I was exhausted and very, very cold at this point. The checkpoint was in a barn close to the Cat and Fiddle Pub, I think, and the warmth and the tea and soup on offer, cheered me up no end.
A couple of years later, in my first year at University, a fellow resident of the tiny Halls I lived in, an ultra-runner, won the event in a ridiculous, record time of around 9 hours. We took 22 I think. I don’t think I’d even realised it was a race.
There’s a fuller, more detailed, account of a more recent completion here, which I enjoyed reading.

We took a different route down through the woods and found lots of heavily laden raspberry canes.

PXL_20230810_140549868
Sculpture of a Lime Burner, Grin Low Woods.

Although tucking into the raspberries slowed us down somewhat, we still had time to kill before the DBs were done swinging through the trees, so we had a wander down into Buxton.

PXL_20230810_142651329
Boating Lake, Pavilion Gardens.
PXL_20230810_143202848
Buxton Pavilion.

Back in University Hiking Club days I think we held at least one post-hike Meal and Barn Dance (we’d call it a Ceilidh these days I suspect) in Buxton, I think in the Pavilion, although I could easily be wrong. I also ran the Buxton half-marathon years ago, a very hilly affair with a brutal first few miles up on to Axe Edge Moor. Anyway, it’s a handsome spa town and a lovely place to visit, so I was glad to be back.

PXL_20230810_143258499
Buxton Pavilion.
PXL_20230810_143359636
Pavilion Tea Rooms.
PXL_20230810_143947655
Pavilion Interior.
PXL_20230810_144030648
Buxton Opera House.
PXL_20230810_144146182
London Transport Bus – a bit lost?
PXL_20230810_144513999
Buxton Crescent
PXL_20230810_144814090
Grove Hotel.
PXL_20230810_153003954
Cafe at the Green Pavilion.

We popped into the Cafe at the Green Pavilion for a drink. It was hot by now, so I settled on a locally brewed beer. Very nice too. The menu looked enticing, so we were disappointed that the staff were in the process of closing up, and we couldn’t come back for tea. In fact, I can’t remember what we did by way of an evening meal – maybe this was the night we had late fish and chips from the chippy on the Market Square in Ashbourne? Also very nice.

PXL_20230810_153300671
War Memorial.

There were a group filming by the War Memorial, but whether film or TV, drama or documentary, I’ve no idea.

PXL_20230810_153321964.ACTION_PAN
The Crescent and the Pump Room Roof.

I did dip into the Pump Room, now a visitor centre and cafe, but my photos of the interior are not very impressive.

PXL_20230810_165404864
Danebower Colliery Ventilation Chimney.

We weren’t done yet. I’d taken a leaf out of Andy’s book and been scouring satellite images looking for a suitable layby to give us access to the River Dane, because I’d also been scouring the internet for wild-swimming spots in the Peak District. There don’t seem to be many likely venues.

PXL_20230810_170413840
River Dane

Which probably explains why, even though it was getting quite late, the pools at Three Shires Head were very busy. It’s nice to see people enjoying the outdoors, but, as much as I enjoy loud music, in the right circumstances, I prefer it when other people don’t subject me to their execrable taste in modern pop. (Heh, heh, I sound like my dad: ‘It just goes thump, thump, thump’).
In fact, the pools are not ideal for swimming. Well, you can manage a couple of strokes in the pool on the left in the photo below, but neither is very deep.

PXL_20230810_172336757
Three Shires Head.

We consoled ourselves by ducking under each of the waterfalls, a bracing experience, which seemed to start a bit of a trend.

It’s a long time since I last visited Three Shires Head and I was trying to remember whether the paths were as eroded then as they are now. I remember it as quite an isolated, quiet spot, although, since it’s not far from a major road, I suppose that I might be guilty of looking back through rose-tinted spectacles.

PXL_20230810_184030170
Advancing shadows. The Roaches on the skyline.

All-in-all, a really enjoyable day. And, Grin Low, which was new to me, might be one for our forthcoming book ‘Small Hills with Disproportionately Good Views’. Talking of which, we have a competitor…

PXL_20231219_130238837
Our idea made flesh!

I saw this in Waterstones in Lancaster and then, fortuitously, also found it in the Oxfam bookshop, so I now have a copy. Some of our favourites are in there, but many are not, so we may be in the clear. Phew! Unless Phoebe Smith has a volume two on the way? Oh no!

White Peak – a Trip to Buxton.

Shugborough Hall

PXL_20230809_112915697
Shugborough Hall

Our accommodation was very close to Alton Towers, it would have been churlish not to offer the DBs a day out there, but it’s not really my speed these days, so having dropped them off there, we went instead to the National Trust’s Shugborough Hall Estate, where we had a great day out.

PXL_20230809_115603497
Shiny pots and pans.
PXL_20230809_120011227
Crockery.
PXL_20230809_130702967
Shugborough Hall interior.
PXL_20230809_130539012
A fancy ceiling.
PXL_20230809_131308337
Books galore – my favourite room, obviously.
PXL_20230809_131314291
Library ceiling.
PXL_20230809_132100328
In the garden.
PXL_20230809_132335983
Reverse of the house.
PXL_20230809_133520361
The River Sow.
PXL_20230809_133936866
Knopper Gall.

The arboretum in the grounds is home to 150 species of oaks from all around the world, which was fascinating. Some of the acorns were malformed in this way. I think this is a Knopper Gall. Knopper from the German word ‘Knoppe’ for a 17th century felt hat. The gall is caused by a tiny gall wasp Andricus quercuscalicis, which only arrived in the UK in the 1960s. Curiously, it has two different alternating generations one of which makes these galls, whilst the other lives on Turkey Oaks, an introduced species usually found in the parks of stately homes. I took several photos of different galls but have used this one because it was more colourful and more knobbly than the others. Apparently, the very distorted and folded appearance means that there are lots of wasps present, although I have no idea what sort of number constitutes ‘lots’.

PXL_20230809_134357408
A distant view of the house.
PXL_20230809_135209756
The Chinese House.
PXL_20230809_135805327
Europe’s widest Yew (and TBH for scale!)
PXL_20230809_141147935
Essex Bridge.

A document from 1679 mentions this bridge, which is just outside Shugborough’s grounds, replacing an older wooden bridge and having 43 arches. Since it now has 14 either it has been significantly reduced in size or somebody was exaggerating. Has the Trent shrunk since the 17th Century?

PXL_20230809_140741295
Essex Bridge.
PXL_20230809_140807506
River Trent.

It was a lovely spot and there were a number of kids making the most of it and paddling in the river here.

PXL_20230809_141407543
English Longhorn Cows.

I was very taken with the English Longhorn cattle at Shugborough. Apparently, despite the fearsome looking horns, they are docile.

PXL_20230809_141506655
English Longhorn Cows.

I’ve read that they’re very good mothers too.

PXL_20230809_141818157
The stables – I think.

There’s a cafe and a secondhand bookshop tucked away in a courtyard hereabouts. We patronised both. TBH was impressed with her vegan lunch but my ploughman’s was thoroughly underwhelming.

PXL_20230809_142525318
1955 Rover 75.
PXL_20230809_143321891
Tower of the Winds.
PXL_20230809_143500814
Tower if the Winds – leaded window.
PXL_20230809_144410223
The Orangery in the Walled Garden.

Much as I enjoyed the house and the grounds, for some reason it was the walled garden which appealed most of all. I’m not much of a gardener, but I really appreciate other people’s efforts.

PXL_20230809_144447615
Artichokes?

Only part of the garden has been restored – if they get around to fixing it all it will be huge.

PXL_20230809_144559719
Honey Bees.

I like tall flowering plants, and I love to eat artichokes – we really ought to have some in our garden. My Dad used to grow them on his allotment, I’m pretty sure.

PXL_20230809_144835883
In the Walled Garden.

It had been a partly cloudy day, but by this point it had actually become quite hot, not something we experienced very often this summer.

PXL_20230809_145005777
In the Walled Garden.
PXL_20230809_145201507
Sweet-Scented Joe-Pye Weed?
PXL_20230809_145225297
In the Walled Garden.
PXL_20230809_145832047
How ’bout them onions?
PXL_20230809_145843917
Courgettes.
PXL_20230809_153753628
The River Trent at the Wolseley Centre.

Alton Towers was open quite late, and we knew the boys would want to milk it to the full, so en route we stopped at the Staffordshire Wildlife Trust’s headquarters at the Wolseley Centre. We actually arrived after closing time, but were told that there was an event on there, so we were okay to stroll around the site before braving the traffic chaos at Alton Towers.

PXL_20230809_154222099
Purple Loosestrife at the Wolseley Centre.

Shugborough is very close to Cannock Chase, which had me very excited because of fondly remembered childhood visits. We didn’t find time to go exploring there on this occasion, so I’ve added it to my ever expanding ‘to do’ list.

Shugborough Hall